Japan 2024

Mark Finn
May 28-June 15

This was our first summer tour to Japan for a few years. The tour was aimed at locating summer visitors and Japanese endemics rather that high numbers of species. Karuizawa is very different to winter visits and on this occasion we managed views of Narcissus and Blue and White Flycatchers, Japanese Thrush and Yellow Bunting. It was good to see several species breeding around Mt Fuji in Honshu and the lowlands close to Narita Airport. The latter held Marsh Grassbird and Japanese Reed Buntings two scarce species which are easy to see in early June. One of the many highlights of the tour was a stay on Myakejima island where we located all the island endemic birds including Izu Robin, Izu Thrush, Styan’s Grasshopper Warbler, Owston’s Tit and Ijima Leaf Warblers. Our time spent in the Ryukyu Islands was very special and we cleared up on almost all of the species available to us. A surprise was a pair of summering Black-faced Spoonbills on Amami Oshima. Finally we ended up in Hokkaido where the fields gland forests were full of birds including Siberian Rubythroat, Amur Stonechat, various shrikes and flycatchers and of course majestic Red-crowned Cranes. The following trip report details the species observed and places visited during out summer tour.

May 28th-29th: London, Tokyo, Sasagawa, Ukishima, Tone River Route 44, Choisi
Daily 32 New 32 Running 32
Weather: Heavy rain on the 28th followed by sunny spells on the 29th with a SE wind 22c-24c

The group met up in London for the long flight to Japan where arrival was at 1045 the next day. I picked up the transport and travelled east out of Tokyo towards Chiba Prefecture. Heavy rain was to dominate the day so I checked in early after a tough journey from Europe. On the 29th we met up and visited Ukishima a small wetland dominated by dense reedbeds, isolated bushes and riverine habitats. The entrance roads held Black-eared Kite, Great Egret, Great Cormorant and Tree Sparrow. On arrival at Ukishma an elevated viewpoint gave views of Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Green Pheasant and Grey Heron. It did not take long to locate very noisy Oriental Reed Warblers singing almost anywhere. Careful scanning also revealed Black-browed Reed Warbler, Zitting Cisticola, Marsh Grassbird, Meadow Bunting and the rare Japanese Reed Bunting. A satisfactory morning with sightings of rare Japanese birds so I headed toward the Tone River along Route 44. The bridges held Common Kestrel, Oriental and Japanese Cormorants along the banks and Little Terns fishing along the river. A scan of the river added Little Tern and singing Japanese Bush Warblers singing from cover. Choisi is a busy fishing port with the first quay having Japanese Cormorant, immature Black-tailed Gulls and Black-backed Wagtails feeding young. The final birding stop at the cape added thousands of Streaked Shearwaters and a few Sooty Shearwaters fling close to shore.

May 30th: Sasagawa, Karuizawa
Daily 32 New 16 Running 48
Weather: Sunny am followed by cloudy skies pm on a SE wind 24c

Today I set off back towards Tokyo and then towards Karuizawa in the Japanese Alps. Arrival was later in the morning so it was time to visit the river area near Karuizawa. By the nature centre the fast-flowing river had a male Grey Wagtail and in the trees the first of many Japanese Tits. A walk into the forest was planned at a slow pace. Once on the gravel track we located Black-backed Wagtail, Varied Tit, Narcissus and Black and White Flycatchers feeding among the leafy green trees. At the entrance to another path a pair of Japanese Yellow Buntings was heard. Also in the vicinity were singing Eurasian Wren, Coal Tit and the persistent calls of Lesser Cuckoos. A bonus came when a male Japanese Thrush landed on the path and showed well for several minutes. At the top of the path the habitat changes to an open area surrounded by mature trees which attracted a Great Spotted Woodpecker and a Bull-headed Shrike. A excellent days birding in the mixed forest habitats of Honshu.
Mammals: Japanese Flying Squirrel (1), Red Squirrel (3)

May 31st: Karuizawa, Saku, Takamine, Prince Hotel
Daily 40 New 14 Running 62
Weather: Cloudy with heavy afternoon rain showers 11c-16c

It was back to the forest this morning under leaden skies with a return visit on the main track. Similar birds were observed to yesterday afternoon but in lower numbers due to the weather conditions. The river held up to three Grey Wagtails and a single Brown Dipper the latter being a tricky bird to find here in the spring. Further up the track an open area attracted a pair of Ashy Minivets, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Coal Tit and a singing Japanese Bush Warbler. The latter species is a favorite host of Lesser Cuckoo which was also in the vicinity. I picked up supplies and visited a reservoir close to Saku which is primarily a winter site but worth a visit in spring. The area had many pairs of nesting Grey Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Egret and Great Cormorant. A pair of Tufted Duck was an unusual record and was obviously nesting close by. A scan in the river and adjacent shingle banks added Little Ringed Plover, Common Merganser, Barn Swallow, Asian House Martin, Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Mallard and a pair of Japanese Wagtails. Lunch was taken and then towards the mountains and the Takamine Plateau. The weather went downhill with low cloud and rain although a pair of Daurian Redstarts at the summit was an unexpected bonus. I decided to head back to Karuizawa and visit the ground of the Prince Hotel. The wooded area with grass and a reedbed attracted Little Grebe, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tit and the commoner species.

June 1st: Karuizawa, Mt Fuji (Gogome), Gotemba
Daily 29 New 6 Running 68
Weather: Sunny spells and cloud on a SW wind 11c-22c

Our journey today was to taken us in a southerly direction to the Mount Fuji area. Arrival was late morning and we started with a visit to the lower mountain area where we had close views of Green Pheasant, Narcissus Flycatcher, Warbling White-eye, Eurasian Nuthatch and Grey-capped Greenfinches. I started to go towards Gotemba which is the high point on this spectacular road which passes through rich woodland. The first parking area had a confiding Japanese Bush Warbler and a calling Common Cuckoo. Further up the road another spot held Grey Wagtail in a somewhat unusual place. Gogome was eventually reached and is a popular place for tourists and locals from Tokyo. At the lower car park a few trails lead away from the tourist area. This was very productive for stunning views of Red-flanked Bluetails, Goldcrest (a probable spilt to Asian Goldcrest) and several singing Blue and White Flycatchers. A Japanese Sparrowhawk was briefly seen hunting in the upper forests before fog and low cloud started to descend. Quality birds today in stunning surroundings.

June 2nd: Gotemba, Shingogome Road 150, Yamanaka-ko, Tokyo
Daily 23 New 3 Running 71
Weather: Cloudy with afternoon rain on a SW wind 10c-16c

After leaving Gotemba I travelled up another quiet road towards Mount Fuji. Low cloud hampered us to start with which led to us observing Sika Deer by the roadside. At the upper car park a walk around the area produced singing Red-flanked Bluetails, Common Cuckoo, Coal Tit and Eurasian Jays scolding from the conifer cover. On the way down we eventually had great views of Japanese Leaf Warblers giving their distinctive calls, this species was recently split from Arctic Warbler. Also in the area were Eurasian Wren, Narcissus Flycatcher and Japanese Bush Warblers. Yamanaka-ko is a large crater lake a few kilometers to the north. On a jetty we observed Great Cormorants and Grey-capped Greenfinches drinking fresh water on the volcanic beach. The journey back to Tokyo was tricky with heavy rain and people returning from their weekends in the mountains. Later in the evening we boarded the ferry towards the isolated Izu Island of Myakejima
Mammals: Sika Deer (4)

June 3rd: Myakejima including Akakokko, Cape Izu and Northern Forest areas
Daily 27 New 9 Running 80
Weather: Sunny spells with a SW wind 19c-25c

At 0500 hours we entered the harbour on Myakejima with Streaked Shearwaters and Pacific Swifts for company. Check in at the hotel which is near the terminal. At 0800 I set off towards Akakokko which is dominated by natural forest and a crater lake. The first trail was excellent for the endemic Izu Robin, Japanese Bush Warbler, Warbling White-eye and Oriental Turtle Doves. I then travelled a bit further and started a walk around the lake. This proved to be great birding with close views of the near-threatened Ijima’s Leaf Warbler, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker and Lesser Cuckoo. The lake itself had Osprey, Little and Intermediate Egrets and in the adjacent woodlands a pair of endemic Owston’s Tits. Lunch was taken at Cape Izu where Japanese Bush Warblers were abundant plus several Meadow Buntings on territory. Further down the road a bonus in several Japanese Woodpigeons perched up in the open on stunted bamboo. The birding was even better a few minutes later as the globally scarce Styan’s Grasshopper Warbler showed and sang from an exposed perch, we eventually located four birds in the area. The rest of the day was spent travelling around forest roads which have been abandoned since the year 2000 due to volcanic activity. Good views of species seen earlier in the day with the addition of Izu Thrushes feeding on the side of the road.
Mammals: Yellow Weasel (1), Northern Fur Seal (1)

June 4th: Myakejima, Tokyo
Daily 23 New 2 Running 83
Weather: Sunny spells with SW winds 17c-24c

Overnight a Brown Hawk Owl was heard near the hotel. After breakfast a leisurely morning was spent travelling around the island looking for birds. Similar birds to yesterday with the addition of a Eastern Cattle Egret which was something of a surprise find. Better views were obtained of a male Izu Thrush perched on a telegraph post near the airport. At 1345 we boarded the ferry back to Tokyo. Near the fishing boats literally thousands of Streaked Shearwaters and a few Black-tailed Gulls were recorded. The ferry back to Tokyo was disappointing for birds with nothing of note being recorded. Tomorrow we have a flight down to Amami Oshima in the Ryuku Islands.

Amami Woodcock

June 5th: Tokyo, Amami Oshima, Ose Beach, Yuwan Dake
Daily 20 New 10 Running 93
Weather: Sunny with light winds from the SW 24c

Haneda for the flight to Amami Oshima in Kagoshima prefecture and on arrival we located Oriental Turtle Dove, Zitting Cisticola and Eastern Blue Rock Thrush around the car park. At 1530 hours we picked up Junko our local guide and started with a visit to Ose Beach which is rocky and studded with areas of mud and sand a rare habitat in the islands. To my amazement the first birds seen were two Black-faced Spoonbills resting on the beach in front of us. Other species present included Great and Little Egrets, Common Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Kentish Plover, Black-winged and White-headed Stilts and a Grey Heron. Naze the main town on the island was reached and we followed this by a night drive into Yuwan Dake an area of dense forest. This proved to be an exceptional trip with close views of the scarce Amami Woodcock, Lidth’s Jay, Ruddy Kingfisher, Ryuku Green Pigeon, Oriental Turtle Dove and several calling Ryuku Scops Owls. In addition to these birds several endemic Amami Black Rabbits were recorded.
Mammals: Amami Black Rabbit (14), Amami Black Spiny Rat (3)

Ruddy Kingfisher

June 6th: Naze, Amami Gunto National Park, Akina
Daily 23 New 6 Running 99
Weather: Cloudy with several spells of heavy rain. SW wind 8c-18c

A miserable day weather-wise as the group headed towards Amami Gunto National Park in the north of the island. The entrance road held Ryuku Minivet, Brown-eared Bulbul and Lidth’s Jays. A retreat to lower altitudes was a good move as the beach area held Great, Little and Pacific Reef Egrets. After lunch a diversion to the rice paddies at Akina where we found the uncommon White-breasted Waterhen, Intermediate Egret, Eastern Spot-billed Duck and a calling Ruddy Kingfisher. It was time to head towards the forest and mountains again and walk on the extensive trail network. A lot of searching and scanning eventually revealed Ryuku Robins although up to ten birds were on territory and remained hidden and elusive from view. At the end of the afternoon a Owston’s Woodpecker was located hammering out a dead tree  and giving spectacular views.

June 7th: Amami Oshima, Okinawa, Ishigaki
Daily 16 New 4 Running 103
Weather: Cloudy with occasional showers on a SW wind 29c

The group left Naze for the airport and connecting flights down to Ishigakijima which is closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan. The usual birds were seen en route with the addition of several Pacific Swallows. On arriving at Ishigakijima we located Common Myna around the airport buildings and a single Black-naped Tern flying offshore. In the evening a night drive was arranged into a local park and historical site near Ishigaki the main centre of population on the island. This was very productive with sightings of at least three Ruddy Kingfishers perched on bare branches. The highlight however was close views of Ryuku Scops Owls sitting and calling on exposed branches. During the evening we heard several ‘duets’ between pairs.

June 8th: Ishigaki including Hiratabaru, Akaishi, Kabira, Shiramizu, Furusutobaru, Banna Park
Daily 37 New 13 Running 116
Weather: Warm and sunny with light SW winds 30c

I met up with my local guide at 0900 hours and went to Hiratabaru an area of working rice paddies. The wires attracted Light-vented Bulbuls a recent colonist from Taiwan and Pacific Swallows. A search of the rice fields quickly added high numbers of Oriental Turtle Doves, Common Moorhen, White-breasted Waterhen and a party of Scaly-breasted Munias. Our next stop was an area of farmland and forest at Akaishi. On the way Whiskered Terns hawking for insects over rice fields an uncommon bird in the island chain. At Akaishi brief views of Asian Koel another uncommon bird on Ishigaki, also in the area were Ishigaki Tit, Warbling White-eye and Indian Peafowl the latter being a long term introduced species. A diversion was made to Kabira where we added Crested Terns. Shiramizu was next on the agenda an area of rice fields mixed with overgrown canals and ditches. A few interesting birds present included the uncommon Grey-headed Lapwing, Black-crowned Night Heron, Purple Heron and the endemic Ryuku Serpent Eagle which numbers less than a 100 birds. Furusutobaru was visited again this time in daylight with the added bonus of Ryuku Boobook sitting and watching us (in total we located around 6 birds in three locations). In the same area at least two Ruddy Kingfishers with food suggesting they were feeding young nearby. Banna Park was our last birding stop where we had close views of Ishigaki Tits, the uncommon Ryuku Flycatcher and Ryuku Minivets. On the way back to the hotel an offshore rock stack attracted three pairs of breeding Black-naped Terns.

Okinawa Rail

June 9th: Ishigaki, Okinawa, Yambaru National Park
Daily 21 New 3 Running 119
Weather: Heavy rain on Ishigaki followed by showers in Okinawa on a SW wind 19c-28c

Today was a travel day back northwards to Okinawa the largest and most populated of the islands. On leaving Ishigaki heavy rains fell. Near the airport a surprise find was a Common Pheasant wandering around near the car rental office. The flight to Naha went smoothly and we transferred to our accommodation in the heart of Yambaru National Park. A night drive followed along the roads and tracks of the area adding a roosting Okinawa Rail and up to three Pryer’s Scops Owls at close range. At the hotel itself a Ryuku Scops Owl was seen at close quarters and kept up his call for several hours.

Pryer's Scops Owl

June 10th: Yambaru National Park, Kuni Gami, Kijoka Tabuku area
Daily 27 New 5 Running 124
Weather: Rather mixed with sunny spells and showers on a SW wind 19c-28c

Before breakfast we had a short drive around Yambaru getting close views of Okinawa Rails feeding by the roadside or clambering up trees an odd sight for a flightless bird. Most of the morning was spent cruising around remote road which were covered in leaves and other woodland debris searching for birds. In one area near a dam we watched two Okinawa Rails simply demolish a compost heap in search of food. After watching this fascinating behavior the group located the beautiful Okinawa Robin which showed well pumping his tail and looking at us before flying around with another bird. In another few meters we located a female Japanese Paradise Flycatcher which can be a difficult bird to find and watch in the dense forest habitat of Yambaru. After a lot of searching several Okinawa Woodpeckers were located either drumming on dead trees or calling loudly from cover. This is indeed a rare woodpecker of which under 800 survive in the northern part of Okinawa. Picked up supplies and then went to the old rice fields of Kijoka Tabuku which are now used for exotic flower production. We were lucky at this location as three Cinnamon Bitterns were seen in flight with a sub-adult Black-crowned Night Heron. The weather started to close in as we visited another dam where we heard Common Kingfisher and had extremely close views of a Ryuku Green Pigeon perched on a road bridge. Back to the hotel for the night and tomorrow we head north to Hokkaido.

June 11th: Okinawa, Hokkaido, Nemuro
Daily n/r New 0 Running 124
Weather: Torrential rain in Okinawa, brighter in Hokkaido

A travel day today involving the length of Japan

June 12th: Nemuro, Cape Nosappu, Onnemoto, Tobai, Ochiisi, Akekko (area)
Daily 45 New 19 Running 143
Weather: Sunny with foggy spells on the coast. Light NW winds 17c-21c

Around the hotel Pacific Swifts were hunting for insects and the first of many Slaty-backed Gulls were observed (several hundred today). Cape Nosappu was the first birding spot today and en route we encountered Common and Oriental Cuckoos and Amur Stonechats perched on wires and fences. On arrival at the lighthouse a Black-backed Wagtail showed. On offshore rocks we located Great, Japanese and Pelagic Cormorants and the first White-tailed Eagle of the tour. A seawatch quickly revealed a passage of Rhinoceros Auklets and a pair of Tufted Puffins. Near the coast a single male Harlequin Duck. Onnemoto is close by an area of reeds and stunted bamboo next to the sea. The wires here attracted several Siberian Rubythroats, Amur Stonechat and Grey-capped Greenfinches. A careful scan of the reeds added several Black-browed Reed Warblers and at least two Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warblers a scarce and declining summer visitor to Hokkaido. Near the car park a few Common Reed Buntings an uncommon summer visitor to the area. A visit to a coastal lake had lots of bathing gulls plus a pair of Little Grebe, Mallard and two pairs of Greater Scaup which occasionally summer on the island. Tobai and its nature centre is rather run down and in need of investment and remains closed to the public. A walk around the woodland trail added Japanese and Marsh Tits, Japanese Bush Warbler, Eastern Crowned Warbler singing and on territory plus a calling Eurasian Nuthatch. On the way towards Ochiisi coastal fog started to affect the days birding. The wires attracted Long-tailed Rosefinch, Amur Stonechat and Grey-capped Greenfinch whilst the larger poles held singing Latham’s Snipe a bird which winters in Australia. A slow drive in the Akekko area held similar birds before we headed back towards Nemuro.

June 13th: Nemuro, Odaito, Notsuke Hando, Shiretoko Pass
Daily 36 New 8 Running 151
Weather: Fog followed by sunny spells and showers. NW wind 11c-17c

Today I headed north with the first birding stop being at the small town of Odaito. The sea held Tufted Duck and Greater Scaup whilst the sea defence walls attracted several White-tailed Eagles. Along the road we located several Latham’s Snipe, Amur Stonechat and Oriental Turtle Doves. I turned down to Notsuke Hando a long spit with marshes and the Nemuro Strait being the main habitat. The first bushy habitat held Sakhalin Grasshopper Warbler, Common and Oriental Cuckoos and Black-browed Reed Warblers. A bonus came down the road in the form of a flock of Chestnut-cheeked Starlings numbering almost fifty birds and a single Russet Sparrow. Offshore it was odd to record Black-legged Kittiwakes mainly in first year plumages. Our journey took us to Rausu and over the Shiretoko Pass where we stopped for lunch. The forest was alive with the songs of Japanese Bush Warblers and Oriental Cuckoos. A bonus here was views of Sakhalin Leaf Warblers a tricky bird to see at the best of times. In the skies above us up to a hundred White-throated Needletails with a few Pacific Swifts for company. It was time to go south with an Osprey en route. The last stop was at a farm where we had close views of a Blakiston’s Eagle Owl perched in a tree a great finale to the day.

June 14th: Nemuro, Lake Choboshi, Ochiisi, Kiritappu, Hanasaki
Daily 40 New 2 Running 153
Weather: Overcast with cool N winds 11c-18c

First stop today was Lake Choboshi which is surrounded by mature woodland and many old trees. The usual birds were around and included a pair of Red-crowned Cranes and White-tailed Eagles patrolling the skies. A Black-browed Reed Warbler showed well singing from an exposed perch. The boardwalk to Cape Ochiisi was closed due to safety measures. In the surrounding fields we located the scarce Brown Shrike, Amur Stonechat and low-flying Pacific Swifts. I then went on the road to Kiritappu and stopped at several roadside lakes which held among other species Red-crowned Crane, Mallard, Northern Shoveler, Greater Scaup and singing Sakhalin Grasshopper Warblers. The wires had Barn Swallow and Sand Martins. At Cape Kiritappu a walk towards the lighthouse added Great, Japanese and Pelagic Cormorants to the day list plus Rock Dove and Black-backed Wagtail. I ended the day with a visit to the new hide at Hanasaki Port which gives excellent views towards the ocean and islands, port and jetty areas. Large numbers of nesting cormorants and gulls and in coastal waters Short-tailed Shearwaters, Black Scoter, Pacific Diver, Harlequin Duck and thousands of Rhinoceros Auklets.

June 15th: Nemuro, Kushiro Wetlands, Tokyo
Daily n/r New 0 Final 153
Weather: Sunny with light N winds 17c

Our final day was spent at Kushiro wetlands which are close to the airport.  A new boardwalk has been constructed since my last visit and gives extensive views into the marsh, woodland and reedbeds. Near the centre Great Spotted Woodpecker, Japanese Tit and the never ending songs of Japanese Bush Warblers. A walk around followed with sightings of Amur Stonechat and Reed Bunting. At 1300 hours we arrived at the airport for the flight to Tokyo and our last night in Japan.