Guinea-Bissau and Casamance, 2025

Mark Finn
Photos: Paul Barry
March 16-28

This was to be our fourth visit to Guinea-Bissau and Casamance in Senegal at the end of the long dry season. The birding again proved to be excellent with several unusual species being present and a marked migration of northbound waders and hirundines. Unusual species seen included Black-crowned Crane, White-fronted Plover, African Goshawk, Beaudouin’s and Brown Snake Eagles, Oriole Warbler, brief views of the rare and declining Timneh Parrot, Swamp Palm and Honeyguide Greenbuls, Violet-backed Starlings in exceptionally high numbers, Double-toothed Barbet, Compact Weaver and Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike. 
My thanks go out to Hamilton and his expertise in the habitats of Guinea Bissau, Ass in Casamance and the drivers in both areas who carried us safely around on some very poor roads.
The next visits are later in 2025 and March 2026 to this unexplored area of West Africa

March 16th: Popenguine, Dakar, Bissau
Daily 35 New 35 Running 35
Weather: Hot and sunny with light SW winds 34c

Due to flight changes we had a morning to spare to bird around the gardens at Popenguine. Offshore bird sightings included Grey-headed Gull, West African Royal Tern, Common Tern and scattered sightings of Pink-backed Pelican, White-breasted Cormorant and a migrant Osprey. The gardens held the commoner species. At 1400 hours we set off towards the airport for the flight to Bissau which is literally 40 minutes. Passed through customs and visa issued and then picked up by our ground agents. Transfer to the hotel in Bissau with Rose-ringed Parakeets in the grounds.

March 17th: Bissau, Mansoa, Rio Carrobul, Cantanhez
Daily 72 New 53 Running 88
Weather: Hot and sunny 35c

The hotel grounds held Pied Crow, Laughing Dove, Common Bulbul and Hooded Vultures. On the road to Mansoa our first stop had Lizard Buzzard, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Common Redshank, Whimbrel, Copper Sunbird, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird and African Grey Hornbill. Overhead an African Goshawk and a migrating Wahlberg’s Eagle. At the town of Mansoa a diversion to a wetland which is used by livestock. This was an excellent place to observe several species of herons and egrets, Black Heron, Black-crowned Crane, Black Crake, Western Marsh Harrier and from the bridge Red-chested and Pied-winged Swallows, Common House Martin, Striated Heron, African Woolly-necked Stork and Hamerkop. Picked up supplies and travelled to the Rio Carrobul bridge crossing where we found the water level to be low. Luck was with us a pair of African Finfoot was observed on the far side with Senegal Thick-knee, Wire-tailed Swallow, Collared Sunbird and African Green Pigeons. The journey to Cantanhez appeared to take an age with arrival at 2000 hours, a tough day on the road from Bissau.

Blue-throated Roller

March 18th: Cantanhez
Daily 41 New 17 Running 105
Weather: Hot and sunny 29c

After a good night’s sleep with breakfast at 0800 hours and birding the garden shortly afterwards. The large trees held Great Blue and Guinea Turaco, Swamp Palm Bulbul, Glossy-backed and Square-tailed Drongos and two Piping Hornbills. A short drive towards the entrance road added a hunting Lanner Falcon, Fanti-Sawwing and in the mature forest Little Greenbul, Red-tailed Leaflove, Red-headed Paradise Flycatcher, Broad-billed and Blue-throated Rollers, Violet-backed Starlings, Eurasian Golden and African Golden Orioles. It was starting to get very hot so a return to base was made. The group was out again at 1600 hours to explore another area of forest. Birdlife in the forest was hard to locate although Ass and myself managed to find an Ahanta Francolin feeding on the ground in dense cover. Later in the afternoon we observed a passage of Common House Martins and Bronze Mannikins feeding in long grasses.

Chestnut-bellied Negrita

March 19th: Cantanhez
Daily 50 New 17 Running 122
Weather: Hot and sunny 34c

The usual birds were in and around the garden with the addition of Chestnut-breasted Negrito and a Klaas’s’ Cuckoo calling from the tall trees. Most of our birding was along roads dotted with small villages. In one patch of forest several Hooded Vultures, White-throated and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, African Pied Hornbill, Swamp Palm Bulbul and a pair of Violet Turacos which plunged into a thick bush. Overhead we observed Woolly-necked Storks, bee-eaters, Fanti-Sawwing and more hirundines. A stop in another village added the unobtrusive Simple Leaflove, Beautiful Sunbird and Red-billed Firefinch. At the end of the track an area of huge trees attracted Red-headed Paradise Flycatcher, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Village Weaver and three Chestnut-breasted Negrita. On our return the football pitch added the uncommon Double-toothed Barbet. It was getting hot as we returned to base and out again at 1600 hours. During the siesta period a Honeyguide Greenbul appeared near the chalets and a pair of Black-necked Weavers gleaning for food in the palm fronds. In the afternoon we took the track towards the river where a Tambourine Dove was seen in flight. The park headquarters produced many birds including Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordonbleau, Pin-tailed Whydah, Wilson’s Indigobird, Black-headed and Village Weavers, The river held Whimbrel, Western Reef Egret, Striated Heron and the uncommon Rufous-chested Swallow. On our return to base we located a pair of Green Woodhoopoes feeding in a tree.

Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher

March 20th: Cantanhez, Rio Corrubal, Bissau
Daily 71 New 15 Running 137
Weather: Hot and sunny 38c

Depart from Cantanhez at 0630 hours for the journey to Bissau. The first birding stop was before the main road in an area of damp grassland interspersed with palms. An open area attracted African Woolly-necked Storks, Great Egret and up to eight African Black Crakes. On the wires we could study Barn, Red-chested and Wire-tailed Swallows, Sand Martin and Fanti Sawwings. Our attention was switched to a flock of Compact Weavers feeding on the track with Orange-cheeked Waxbills. In the grasses we could hear the hooting of a White-spotted Flufftail which remained out of sight. Further along the road a Striped Kingfisher perched on an old termite mound. Other species present included Violet-backed Starling, Senegal Parrot, Woodland and Grey-headed Kingfishers and African Harrier Hawk. Our journey continued with a stop at the bridge where Rock Pratincole were perched on rocks. The same species were present from a few days ago. The nearby forest had a pair of Red-breasted Paradise Flycatchers, Variable Sunbirds and a few Yellow-billed Kites. The road passes through seasonal wetlands which were full of Great and Yellow-billed Egrets, Spur-winged Lapwing, Striated Heron, African Jacana and Long-tailed Starlings. In the trees the group located Blue-cheeked and a single Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Black-winged Kite and Abyssinian Roller. Arrival in Bissau was before 1800 hours after a tough day on poor roads.

March 21st: Bissau, Rubane Island
Daily 55 New 13 Running 150
Weather: Hot and sunny 31c

Birding in the gardens of the Dunia Hotel was good for Lesser Blue-eared and Long-tailed Starlings, White-crowned Robin Chat, Green Woodhoopoe and African Green Pigeon. In the skies the group located many Hooded Vultures, Yellow-billed Kite and Pied Crows. A bonus came in the form of a migrant Short-toed Eagle heading high and to the north. At 1230 we travelled to the port and the fast speedboat journey to Rubane. Birds in and around the docks included Common Redshank, Grey Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, Sandwich and Gull-billed Terns, Grey-headed Gull, Pink-backed Pelican and a African Sacred Ibis. The journey to the island was quick and we arrived at 1425 hours for a late lunch. Later in the afternoon a visit to one of the lagoons and adjacent forest in search of birds. At 1630 a Western Grey Plantain-eater was observed high in a tree. Near the track at least two Olive-bellied Sunbirds showed well feeding on flowers. Little Greenbul was seen briefly before arriving at the lagoon where the tide was low. A careful scan of the terns revealed Caspian, West African Royal, Lesser Crested, Sandwich, Gull-billed and Little Terns with some entering breeding plumage. Waders of interest included Whimbrel, Grey Plover, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling and Common Greenshank. A bonus came when a Goliath Heron landed on the beach and waded into the water searching for food. Offshore we watched a fishing Osprey and Pink-backed Pelicans. At the observation point we located a Senegal Thick-knee and in the background calling White-spotted Flufftails.

March 22nd: Rubane Island Joao Viera
Daily 59 New 14 Running 164
Weather: Hot and sunny 36c

This morning we made the short crossing across to Joao Viera a wooded island. On the entrance route we noted Malachite and Pied Kingfishers plus many Palm-nut Vultures which have a healthy population here. Our walk along the forest edge was productive with Snowy-crowned Robin Chat, European Pied Flycatcher and Tree Pipit feeding on bushes. The tide was starting to rise which resulted in views of waders including the uncommon White-fronted Plover. Other species included Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Bar-tailed Godwit, Grey Plover and the commoner tern species. Above the forest a dark morph European Honey Buzzard, Hooded Vulture and Yellow-billed Kite. A walk into the interior was hard work but we managed to locate African Grey Woodpecker, African Blue Flycatcher, Woodland Kingfisher, Dideric Cuckoo and Little Bee-eater. On the return very brief views of the endangered Timneh Parrot but we were unable to relocate on this occasion. By the lodge African Thrush and Klaas’s Cuckoo were seen feeding on the ground plus a Green-headed Sunbird feeding on flowers. It was time to head back toward Rubane with an island on the way holding African Fish Eagle and a flock of Eurasian Oystercatchers a scarce winter visitor to the islands. On docking at Rubane an old ferry attracted roosting terns which included Sandwich, Lesser Crested, West African Royal and a winter plumaged Common Tern. At 1630 a visit to the lagoon had similar birds to yesterday with the addition of Hadada Ibis and Curlew Sandpipers and a marked increase of northbound waders many of which were going into breeding plumage.

March 23rd: Rubane Island, Bissau, Bissau Ricefields
Daily 58 New 4 Running 163
Weather: Hot and sunny 32c

Back to the capital city of Bissau. The birds around the lodge were similar to the previous day with nothing new added to the list. The crossing went smoothly and we checked into the hotel and arranged an afternoons birding in one of the suburbs. In the hotel grounds several White-crowned Robin Chats were seen looking for food in and around bushes. At 1630 a visit to Bissau rice fields which is close to the airport. The old swimming pool offers good views over the paddies and large trees. In the remaining water the most numerous bird was African Jacana. Other species present included Black-winged Stilt, Common, Green and Wood Sandpipers, Shikra showing well in a palm tree. The wind was starting to increase so we headed back to base for our last night in Guinea-Bissau.

Giant Kingfisher

March 24th: Bissau, Ziguinchor
Daily 62 New 5 Running 172
Weather: Hot and sunny 37c

The group left at 0800 hours for the journey to the border with Senegal. Along the way we located familiar birds of the tour to date until we reached lagoons south of Sao Domingo. Literally dozens of Great Egret, Yellow-billed Stork, Pink-backed Pelican and in the distance a group of Great White Pelicans were recorded. The border was crossed without any problems as we progressed to our hotel in the city. It was very hot at the time so a later departure was planned to visit the road toward Cap Skirring. A forest on the outskirts added Vinaceous Doves and Speckled Pigeons. Many lagoons had dried up although some attracted large numbers of roosting Reed and White-breasted Cormorants. One of the best birds was a Purple Starling which gave excellent views. At the last bridge a pair of Giant Kingfishers, Senegal Thick-knee, Common Redshank and Yellow-billed Egrets.

Olive-bellied Sunbird

March 25th: Ziguinchor, Djiromayte, Pointe St Georges
Daily 87 New 19 Running 191
Weather: Hot and sunny 37c

Our first birding stop today was the mud flats en route to Pointe St Georges. A nice range of waders were present which included Pied Avocet, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint. On the power pylons a Grey Kestrel showed well. Djiromayte is an agricultural area with seasonal marshes dotted with trees and bushes. This proved to be very productive for sightings of Bearded Barbet, Western Red-billed Hornbill, Black-billed Wood Dove, Northern Black Flycatcher, Northern Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops and Olive-bellied Sunbird. The trees at the entrance road to St Georges are always worth checking for birds with this visit producing Wood Warbler and Oriole Warbler. A slow drive down the track added a Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle, Montagu’s Harrier and Brown Babblers. It was hot now and we relaxed by the Casamance River with the commoner birds being observed plus three Caspian Terns. On the return route Double-spurred Francolin, Northern Puffback and Brown Snake Eagle were added to the list.

March 26th: Ziguinchor, Mpak, Marsassoum
Daily 80 New 17 Running 208
Weather: Hot and sunny 37c

This morning we headed back towards Mpak on the border with Guinea-Bissau. After getting permission from the local chief we proceeded to watch birds in a restricted area around the village. A roadside lagoon held a Eurasian Spoonbill, African Jacana, African Harrier Hawk and Blue-bellied Rollers. A walk into the forest area added Double-spurred Francolin, Purple Heron (perched in palms), Bearded Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Glossy-backed Drongo and three Double-spurred Francolins flushed from the grassland. Overhead an African White-backed Vulture, Black Kites perched on a tree within the wetland, Yellow-billed Kite, African Darter, African Sacred Ibis and a pair of Giant Kingfishers. A return to base was needed to recover from the heat of the day.  In the afternoon we made a visit to the vast wetland complex of Marsassoum. The first pool held White-faced Whistling Duck, Senegal Thick-knee, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants and Black-winged Stilts. Further on a muddy area attracted Common Redshank, Common Greenshank and in the trees a Dark Chanting Goshawk. At Marsassoum the group located healthy numbers of both pelicans, African Spoonbill and Whimbrel and hundreds of Yellow-billed Storks. It was time to return back towards Ziguinchor with a pair of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers feeding on cattle. 

March 27th: Ziguinchor, Pointe St Georges
Daily 67 New 1 Final 209
Weather: Hot and sunny 39c

Our last day in the Casamance region and a return visit to Pointe St Georges area. On the way similar birds were seen to two days ago but with a noted clear out of wading species. On the entrance road we could hear the distinctive calls of a Grey-headed Bush-shrike which decided to stay in dense cover. The group decided to walk slowly down the road for 2km searching for birds with best being a low flying Short-toed Eagle. It was getting hot as we approached the river area when a juvenile Dark Chanting Goshawk was spotted sitting in a tree with a freshly caught snake. Lunch was taken at the restaurant with views over the Casamance River. Birds were few on this occasion with highlights being Caspian and Gull-billed Terns and a few of the commoner wader species. The ferry bound for Dakar passed in front of us which was an unexpected sighting. In the afternoon we made our way back towards Ziguinchor and decided to explore another area of grassland and dried marshes. Birds of note included White-throated Bee-eater, Brown Snake Eagle, Bearded Barbet, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleau, Red-billed Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin, Variable and Beautiful Sunbirds. Back to base and then out to dinner for our last night in Ziguinchor.

March 28th: Ziguinchor, Cap Skirring, Dakar, Popenguine, Madrid, UK

This proved to be a long day travelling wise although we managed to break it up with a relaxed visit to Popenguine where we repacked and showered before the flights to Madrid and Paris. A most enjoyable trip had come to an end with good company and birds.