Madagascar 2006 ...with Richard Cruse

September 13th - 30th

This tour of Madagascar proved to be very successful, despite fairly difficult conditions. We managed to see all 10 couas and 15 of the 16 possible vangas but the seven days of bad weather did not give us any chance of seeing all of the ground-rollers. We saw a total of 165 species, including 94 true endemics and 13 regional endemics, as well as 20 species of Lemur.

September 13th: London - Antananarivo.

Weather: Overcast and warm 25 C.

Our early flight from London was on time and our transfer in Paris went smoothly. We arrived in Madagascar late in the evening, where our leader Rivo was waiting for us; we went straight to our hotel in Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar.

September 14th: Antananarivo.

Weather: Sun/cloud 24 C

A pre-breakfast start this morning as we headed off to Tsarasaotra Park and Lake Alarobia, a short drive away from our hotel. The first of several Madagascar Kestrels was seen as we made the short journey. At the lake, there were large numbers of waterfowl, mainly White-faced Whistling Duck and Red-billed Teal, although small numbers of Knob-billed and a few Fulvous Whistling Ducks. Black, Great, Dimorphic and Cattle Egrets were present plus a single African Openbill on the small island in the lake. Birds found in the surrounding undergrowth and trees included Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Swamp Warbler, Madagascar Fody, Common Jery, Madagascar White-eye and Madagascar Munia. Madagascar Black Swift and Mascarene Martins were both seen overhead and a Madagascar Bee-eater also passed by. We returned to the hotel for a late breakfast after which we went into the nearby bank to change some money and then took a walk around until lunch. In the early afternoon, we went to the botanical gardens. We spent some time wandering here and added Little Swift, unusual in this area, Souimanga Sunbirds, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar Magpie Robin and Madagascar Brush Warbler. An excellent find here was a roosting Barn Owl found just as we were leaving the gardens. A stop near to some rice paddies gave some of us a brief view of a Hamerkop and then African Stonechat and Madagascar Cisticola were added before we returned to the hotel for dinner.

September 15th: Antananarivo - Berenty.

Weather: Sunny, 35 C

We left the hotel early this morning and headed to the airport where we were to take our flight south. We arrived in Tagnaro mid-morning and transferred to a bus that took us to Berenty Park our base for two nights. Several new species were seen during the slow journey including Crested Drongo, Grey-headed Lovebird and Namaqua Dove. We made several short stops en route and during one break we found two Warty Chameleons. At another stop we heard Stripe-throated Jery and had good views of Madagascar Buzzard. Sub-desert Brush Warbler was also heard and brief views were had of Chabert's Vanga. We arrived at the park in the early afternoon and went straight in to lunch. After eating we walked one of the trails in the park. We soon found Ring-tailed Lemurs in good numbers and several Verreaux’s Sifakas. Birds included Frances' Sparrowhawk and we had good views of Madagascar Paradise Flycatchers. Our local guide called us over to see two perched owls which were within ten yards of each other: White-browed and Torotoroka Scops Owls. This was a very good find and we had good views of both birds. Madagascar Buttonquail came next, a male seen well by everyone. We returned to camp and headed to the bar for a cold drink and almost as soon as we had sat down, a Madagascar Nightjar settled in the tree near to us and started to call. We left again, this time in the bus to head to a spiny forest nearby, to hunt for lemurs. During a short walk we found White-footed Sportive Lemur and, after searching for a bit, Grey-brown Mouse Lemur.

September 16th: Berenty.

Weather: Sunny 38 C

A pre-breakfast walk this morning started off with Common Newtonia and several Madagascar Kestrels were in the area. Brown Lemurs were found easily this morning. White-browed Owl was found along the trail and Grey-headed Lovebirds and Souimanga Sunbirds were also present. On the river bank Common Greenshanks and Kittlitz's Plovers were found and a lone Striated Heron was feeding some distance away. Great and Crested Couas were both seen well and several Madagascar Turtle Doves were noted along the trail. Madagascar Green Pigeons were found perched in a dead tree and Sickle-billed Vangas were seen very well. White-headed Vangas were found a little further on and Madagascar Magpie Robins were seen on several occasions. A brief view of Madagascar Sparrowhawk was had by some as we returned for breakfast. Another short walk after breakfast was planned but first we took the bus to drive around the fields nearby where we found Madagascar Sandgrouse. We walked from the camp again but the birds were few and far between. We managed brief flight views of Lesser Vasa Parrot and had a good view of a calling Hook-billed Vanga before we returned to the camp mid-morning. In the middle of the afternoon we left for another walk along the forest trails with the temperature hovering in the high thirties. The area proved to be amazingly quiet although, after about an hour, we did find a Ground Boa Constrictor on the trail. Although having several sightings of now familiar species, nothing new was seen before we returned to the bar for cold drinks. After a few minutes Rivo called us and a short walk gave us views of Madagascar Spinetail. As dusk fell, the Madagascar Nightjar again showed well coming into the same tree as the previous evening. A final short walk after dark produced excellent views of Torotoroka Scops Owl before heading back for showers and dinner.

September 17th: Berenty - Tuléar - Ifaty.

Weather: Sunny 34 C

Dawn found us on the trails into the forest. We saw several very familiar species and Madagascar Hoopoe which some had missed previously. We returned for an early breakfast and checked out of the camp at 08:00 and headed for the airport. En route we added Hamerkop and saw the first of many Madagascar Larks. A pair of Cuckoo-rollers was seen briefly and a lone Sakalava Weaver was seen by some but a colony awaited us at our arrival point. Several African Palm Swifts were seen as we had lunch at Fort Dauphin and after eating we headed to the airport and took our short flight to Tuléar. From there we boarded our bus and headed for Ifaty, on the coast, our base for the next two nights. Several stops were made during the journey and we added Black-winged Stilt, Curlew Sandpiper, Three-banded Plover, Grey Plover and Ruddy Turnstone. Our final stop, close to the hotel, gave us Madagascar Plover and White-fronted Plover to finish our day. We arrived at the hotel in time for a drink before showers and dinner.

September 18th: Ifaty.

Weather: Sunny with very high humidity, 32 C.

An early start this morning as we met for coffee at 5 o'clock. We left very shortly afterwards and headed to the nearby spiny forest where we were to walk for around three hours. Several more common species were seen at first light and we all had good views of Chabert's Vanga at last. Archbold's Newtonia came next and Thamnornis Warbler showed well for everyone. A female Red-tailed Vanga was seen by some and a Stripe-throated Jery was seen briefly. Lafresnaye's Vanga was seen by some of the group and we were to try for the bird again in the afternoon. The only mammal seen was a Red-tailed Sportive Lemur, curled up on a branch near to us. Our next bird, Long-tailed Ground Roller, was high on everyone's wanted list, we saw a pair perched at head height within ten metres. Two Madagascar Harrier Hawks were seen nearby building a nest and whilst we were watching them, a call came from one of the guides who had found a Sub-desert Mesite, another very sought after species and one that gave us long and close views. From here we started to head back to the main trail and return to the hotel for a late breakfast. At a small pool in the grounds of the hotel we added Sub-desert Scrub Warbler to finish our morning off well. During our short rest period, two of the group had good views of two Crab Plovers whilst walking along the beach. We rested during the heat of the day and left again to return to the spiny forest in mid- afternoon. Unfortunately there was a very strong wind blowing by the time we reached the forest and in spite of a good search little could be seen. A few of the group did manage a very poor view of Running Coua but the bird flew and could not be found again. We added Greater Vasa Parrot though before deciding to call it a day and return to the hotel.

September 19th: Ifaty - Tuléar - Table Mountain.

Weather: Cloudy/Rain 23 C.

A very early start this morning and we met for coffee before leaving the hotel and heading back towards Tuléar. En route we added Hottentot Teal before getting to Table Mountain. Just after we had started to walk, a tropical rainstorm hit and left everyone soaked! Obviously this did not help the birds either and in spite of a long search only three members of the group managed to see Running Coua very briefly. We did however have reasonable views of Verreaux’s Coua and excellent views of Red-shouldered Vanga. We heard several Running Couas in the area but, due to the difficult habitat and the earlier rain, we had to give up for the morning. We headed into Tuléar where we stopped on the coast to have a late hot breakfast. On the tidal flats in front of the restaurant we added Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, Little Stint, Common Ringed Plover and Grey Heron. After eating we went and checked into our hotel where we were to spend the night. In mid-afternoon we returned to Table Mountain to try our luck once more. Now the weather was dry but heavily overcast and still cool. We started our search and spent a long time moving through head-high bush over rough ground and it was not until at least a further hour's searching that we were at last rewarded: from about fifteen yards, we saw a Running Coua perched in a small tree. Many hours of searching had at last paid off. We continued on to look for another species and again spent a good time searching. This time however it was only the guides that saw Lafresnaye's Vanga. The bird had only been seen by two people the previous day and today was no different unfortunately. We left the area as dusk started to fall so the vanga would have to wait until tomorrow.

September 20th: Table Mountain - Tuléar - Antananarivo - Perinet.

Weather: Sunny, 20 - 30 C

We left early this morning and went to a different area near to Table Mountain. The weather was much kinder and although rather cool it was sunny and dry. Our search started with several common species and after about an hour we saw a pair of Lafresnaye's Vangas, which displayed very well for us all. We left the immediate area, descending a little and stopping to scan some sandbars off the coast where we found, among many other species, a single Crab Plover. We descended to sea level and searched again for another coua, but without success so we went to a botanical gardens and walked. Fairly quickly we had super views of Green-capped Coua, our last needed coua for the area. We returned to the hotel feeling very satisfied with a good morning. We had a very tough three days’ birding here but in the end found all the species that we’d wanted. We breakfasted and left for the airport and the rest of our day was taken up in travelling. We took our flight to Antananarivo where we then boarded our coach and headed straight to Perinet and the rain forest where we arrived in time for dinner.

September 21st: Perinet.

Weather: Cloud/rain 22 C.

Our first morning in Andasibe Mantadia National Park. From the terrace we added Rand's Warbler to our lists before having an early breakfast and taking a short walk along the main road. Strip-throated Jery and Madagascar Cuckoo-rollers were seen and Red-tailed Vanga showed well for all. A Blue Vanga obligingly perched up for us before several Nelicourvi Weavers appeared among a mixed feeding flock. Ward's Flycatcher came next and we then headed onto a forest trail. Madagascar Spinetail overflew and Wedge-tailed Jery was found. Spectacled and Long-billed Greenbuls were both seen before we found a pair of Collared Nightjars roosting on a branch: an excellent find. Next came a pair of Madagascar Scops Owls, again cuddled up on a branch. A Blue Coua was seen briefly before we found a pair of Indri, which gave us all some good photo opportunities. Dark Newtonia was our next bird before we started heading back to the lodge. As we walked the riverbank, we heard a calling Red-fronted Coua but it was on the other side of the river so we retraced our steps and crossed the river. We then made a rather tough crossing through the forest and were eventually rewarded with reasonable views of the bird. We headed back and found Madagascar Sunbird and finally, just before the lodge, a Madagascar Tree Boa Constrictor was found asleep, appropriately in a tree, beside the trail. We returned to the lodge for lunch and just after eating, a pair of Madagascar Blue Pigeons landed in a tree beside the lodge. We left again in early afternoon and headed back into the forest. We marvelled at a Leaf-tailed Gecko, perfectly camouflaged against a tree, before leaving in the rain. The forest proved to be very hard work with the weather against us all the way. We added Tylas and we had a Rufous-headed Ground Roller calling near to us. We spent a very long time trying to lure the bird in and twice it came within two metres of us but even then it was only seen, very briefly indeed, by two of the group. The frustration and the rain made everything difficult and, as the light started to fail, we left the area. We did see Velvet Asity on the return and took a 'short cut' to enable us to get back to the main road before night fell! Another long and fairly frustrating day but with some very good birds in the morning.

September 22nd: Perinet.

Weather: Rain, 18 C

It was already drizzling this morning as we went to breakfast at 04:30. By the time we reached the rain forest in the national park, the rain was pretty steady and in fact did not let up all day. Our first stop gave us all views of Madagascar Rail and this was soon followed by Cryptic Warbler a little further into the park. A White-throated Rail was seen perfectly as it sauntered across a grassy marsh next to the road and Forest Fody was seen later. Madagascar Cuckoo-hawk was seen briefly before stopping near to a small lake that held Madagascar Little Grebe. Nothing else was added in spite of much searching until we saw a group of Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs in a tree next to the road. We had a picnic lunch on the coach and continued our search, still in the rain. Nuthatch Vanga was seen well and Spectacled Greenbul was added by those who had missed it on the previous day. White-throated Oxylabes was seen before we headed back to the hotel. Before entering the hotel, a short diversion gave us superb views of Madagascar Long-eared Owl roosting nearby. A long day but with a good climax. We leave the area tomorrow and head north to, hopefully, some warmer and drier weather.

September 23rd: Perinet - Maroantsetra.

Weather: Cloudy, 25 C

Today was to be a travelling day but before breakfast we took a walk along the forest edge from the hotel. Ward's Flycatcher was added for some and Green Jery was at last seen reasonably well. A pair of Nuthatch Vangas was a good sighting and a group of White-headed Vangas flew overhead. We searched for several other species but nothing else could be found this morning so we started to head back. A call from the undergrowth alerted our guide and after about ten minutes we all had several views of Madagascar Flufftail, an excellent sighting to leave on. After breakfast we checked out and headed towards Antananarivo where we took our flight, via Tamatave, to Maroantsetra where we arrived as night fell. We were to have a very early start tomorrow.

September 24th: Maroantsetra - Masoala.

Weather: Morning rain, sunny afternoon, 27 C

We left the hotel at 05:00 and boarded the boat that would take us across to the peninsula. The crossing took just under two hours, during which we added Long-tailed Cormorant. When we arrived at the Masoala camp we had breakfast. Madagascar Green Pigeon and Madagascar Sunbird were seen from the terrace. We left on a morning walk and headed into the forest. Long-billed Greenbul and Greater Vasa Parrot were both seen early on and we all had good views of Red-breasted Coua. Madagascar Wood Rail showed well and after a short search we found our first Helmet Vanga of the morning. We saw several of this sought-after species though the morning. Tylas was also seen well at last and a Grey-crowned Greenbul was seen by most of the group. Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher was a very good find here and the bird behaved perfectly for us all. The smallest Chameleon, Stump-tailed, about 2.5 centimetres long, was good to see and a pair of White-throated Oxylabes and several Rufous Vangas were seen before we arrived back at the camp for lunch. The whole area was incredibly quiet and in fact during the whole afternoon we only saw two birds. We did however see Red-ruffed Lemur in the forest and Bottle-nosed Dolphin as we returned to the camp along the beach.

September 25th: Masoala.

Weather: Cloudy then rain

Dawn held the prospect of better weather as we headed into the forest again. We had not gone far when, after a good wait, we were all rewarded with excellent views of Crossley's Babbler. From here on however the same pattern as previous days continued. There was very little to be seen in the forest and by mid-morning the rain had started again. The only other bird was a calling Brown Mesite that refused to come out from its cover. A Giant Millipede held our attention for a while but nothing else came our way during the whole walk. The walk was far longer than expected and involved wading several streams and battling with the high tide and we did not get back to the camp until 14:00. We had a very late lunch and hoped for something a little better on a late afternoon walk. The rain continued as we headed back to the forest and the afternoon gave us nothing new so we returned about 17:30 as night started to fall. A short walk from 18:15 gave us Leaf-headed Chameleon, Eastern Woolly Lemur, Giant Dwarf Lemur and Weasel Sportive Lemur, all seen in the rain, yet again.

September 26th: Masoala - Maroantsetra - Antananarivo.

Weather: Sunny/cloudy dry 25 C

A walk at dawn gave us better weather but not much more in the way of birds. White-headed Vanga turned up as usual at the camp and a little way into the forest we found a White-fronted Brown Lemur. Further on a Velvet Asity was seen well and, after some time, a Scaly Ground-roller was at last 'seen'. The bird left the ground like a bullet and flew straight between the group giving some a very brief view indeed! We returned to camp for breakfast and then headed to the beach to board our boat back to Maroantsetra. We lunched at the hotel there and then headed to the airport and caught our flight back to Antananarivo. We cleared the airport at around five and arrived at our hotel in time for a long shower and dinner.

September 27th: Antananarivo - Mahajanga - Ampijoroa.

Weather: Sunny, 38 C

We checked out of the hotel and went straight to the airport for our morning flight to Mahajanga. From there we took our bus to Ampijoroa and on to the camp in the Ankarafantsika NP and had a late lunch. In the middle of the afternoon we walked to a nearby lake and scanned the area. Madagascar Jacana was our first new species and, while half of the group stayed in the hide, the others took the forest boat trip around the lake. The second half of the group followed an hour later. Madagascar Fish Eagles were seen well, with a juvenile still being on the nest. Humblot's Heron was next, standing on a small island and in the water hyacinths a Little Bittern was disturbed. A very brief view of Allen's Gallinule was had by some of the group before we returned to shore. At the camp a group of fifteen Sickle-billed Vangas came in briefly on their way to roost and we headed to our rooms to leave our telescopes and then went out for a night walk. We had seen Coquerel's Sifaka before leaving and on the walk we added Golden Mouse Lemur, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, Western Woolly Lemur, Milne-Edwards Lemur and Grey Mouse Lemur before returning to the camp to shower and have dinner.

September 28th: Ampijoroa - Mahajanga.

Weather: Sunny, 36 C

Our walk this morning proved to be fairly lively during the first hour with a good number of now familiar species being seen. Cockerel’s Coua was seen well and Common Newtonia and Cuckoo-roller gave excellent views. Shlegel's Asity was seen very briefly by some of the group before we returned for breakfast. After eating we went to a different area of forest where our first birds were two Madagascar Crested Ibis. Collared Iguana was found on a tree before we found our first Red-capped Couas. We saw several of these birds during the morning and that meant that we had now seen all of the couas on Madagascar. At the furthest point of the walk, we found a nest under construction and a short wait gave us all very good views of Van Dam's Vanga. On the return, before reaching the hotel, we found a Blue Vanga. We had lunch and then checked out and headed back towards Mahajanga. A marsh en route gave us full summer-plumaged Whiskered Terns as well as Hottentot Teal and many fishing Black Egrets. We arrived at our new hotel in time for cold drinks and dinner.

September 29th: Mahajanga - Antananarivo - London.

Weather: Sunny, 36 C

A lie-in this morning! We met for breakfast at 07:00 and then took a boat out into the Mesibouka River estuary. As the tide went out, the mangrove mud flats started to become exposed. Here we added Bernier's Teal and Madagascar Ibis as well as Humblot's Heron and also saw a huge flock of Terek Sandpipers perched in the overhanging tree branches. An African Spoonbill was found high in the mangrove trees and a Madagascar Harrier Hawk flew overhead. On the return trip a Yellow-billed Stork was circling low over the land as we arrived back at our starting point. We had a late lunch and then repacked our suitcases ready to transfer to Mahajanga airport to take our flight back to Antananarivo. There, we boarded our plane and left for the UK a little after midnight. We arrived in London later in the day.

For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.

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