Brazil 2005 ...with Richard Cruse

July 7th-23rd

July 7th/8th: London - Sao Paulo - Iguazu.

Weather: Sunny. 18 C

The main part of our group met at London and was joined by other members at Frankfurt before continuing on to Sao Paolo, where we arrived the following morning. Here another group member joined us before changing airports to take our internal flight on to Iguazu. On the road between the airports we saw Cocoi Heron, Snowy Egret and several other common species. We took the plane on to Iguazu where we arrived in mid afternoon and were met by our guide, Miguel. On arrival, the hotel grounds had Rufous Hornero and White-eyed parakeet. We checked into the hotel and then returned to Puerto Iguazu where we stopped at a garden well known for its hummingbird feeders. Here we saw seven species of hummingbird including Swallow-tailed Hummingbird and Blue-tufted Starthroat. Chestnut-bellied Euphonia and Saffron Finch were seen, as well as Blue Dacnis, before we headed off to a forest trail near to the hotel. After a short time, we had super views of Rufous-crowned Motmot and, a little further on, of Rusty-margined Guan. White-throated Woodcreeper gave a great display before fading light made us return to the hotel for drinks and dinner.

July 9th: Iguazu National Park.

Weather: Sunny. 20 C

A dawn breakfast this morning and we then left the hotel and headed into the Iguazu National Park. A stop en route gave us Red-breasted Toucan and Long-tailed Tyrant. We parked the vehicle and took a forest trail that we walked for the next hour or so. Many species were added to our lists here including Green-headed Tanager, Yellow Tyrannulet, Ochre-breasted and Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaners, Ochre-collared Piculet, Plovercrest, Ruby-crowned Tanager and Robust Woodpecker. An Ocelot was heard roaring nearby as we watched the woodpecker. Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Tufted Antshrike, Streak-capped Antwren and Black-goggled Tanager were all seen before we arrived at the walkway system of bridges to cross to the falls. Heading out across the expanses of water on the walkways, we saw many White-winged Swallows as well as a single Black-collared Swallow. White-rumped Swallows were hunting here and Neotropical Cormorant was seen before we arrived at the spectacle that is Foz do Iguazu. After spending some time here, we walked back to the centre to take the small train to the next area where we stopped for lunch, having seen Chestnut-eared Aracari on the way. There were several Coatis in the area and Red-rumped Caciques and Plush-crested Jays were seen well. We spent the afternoon exploring the extraordinary site of the falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. We had wonderful views of Black-fronted Piping Guan and a juvenile Rufescent Tiger Heron as well as Toco Toucan before stopping at a viewpoint above the falls to watch the Great Dusky Swifts start to come into their roosts behind the falls. We watched a little in awe for some considerable time before the light started to fail and we headed back to our vehicle at the entrance to this amazing park. An extraordinary first full day’s birding for us all.

July 10th: Iguazu National Park.

Weather: Sunny. 20 C

Today we were in the national park for the whole day and we spent the morning walking the Macuco Trail. There were many species seen during the walk including Southern Ant Pipit, White-bearded Manakin, Thrush-like Woodcreeper, Red-crowned Ant Tanager, Rufous-winged Antwren, Ochre-collared Piculet, White-eyed Foliage Gleaner and Blue Manakin. We returned to the main park area for lunch where we added Smooth-billed Ani, Chopi Blackbird, Great Black Hawk and Field and Campo Flickers. After a buffet lunch we took another forest trail and the first bird of the afternoon was Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, a very smart bird. Several feeding flocks were found throughout the afternoon and the best finds were Chestnut-vented Conebill, Purple-throated Euphonia, the southern race of Lineated Woodpecker, Band-tailed Manakin (the star of the day), and a pair of Spot-backed Antshrikes, Fawn-breasted Tanager, White-shouldered Fire-eye and Rufous Gnateater. We returned to the hotel a little before dusk and headed to the bar where, with a beer in our hands, an Aplomado Falcon perched up for us for a short while. A very good day for everyone.

July 11th: Iguazu - Cuiaba - Poconé - Pantanal.

Weather: Sunny. 30 C.

An early start this morning as we left Argentina to head back into Brazil for our seven o’clock flight to Cuiaba. Our guide for this region, Braulio, met us on arrival and we transferred directly to our large bus and headed towards Poconé. Our first stop gave us Planalto Slaty Antshrike, Pileated Finch and Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant among others, before we continued on our way. Bare-faced Ibis, Wattled Jacana, Little Blue Heron and Guira Cuckoos were all logged, as well as Black-tailed Marmoset, before we stopped for lunch in Poconé. From here we headed into the Pantanal. There are more birds here than one can keep up with and we had an amazing two-hour journey through what was only the start of this wonderful place. Brazilian Teal, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Vermilion Flycatcher and Yellow-billed Cardinal were just a few of the birds seen before we found our first Hyacinth Macaw perched on a post near to the roadside. The bird gave us all that we could have hoped for and, for good measure, Yellow-headed Caracara, Capybara and Capped Heron and Sun Bittern all followed. The northern race of Lineated Woodpecker, Chaco Chachalaca, Muscovy Duck, Roseate Spoonbill, Plumbeous Ibis and Black-backed Water Tyrant were all seen well and we had wonderful views of three Bare-faced Curassows, before we stopped at dusk at a large marsh area where several hundreds of egrets, Night Herons and Jabirus were coming in to roost. We watched for some time as five Black Skimmers fished in the shallow water, before continuing on to our hotel. We noted Common Pauraque and Swallow-tailed Nightjars before arriving, tired but elated.

July 12th: Pantanal.

Weather: Sunny. 28 C

This morning was spent in the nearby forest and woodland. A dawn start gave us a large number of species very quickly and, with over forty new species logged within the first two hours, we found ourselves overloaded at times. Grey-crowned Cacholote, Purplish Jay, Rufous-browed Peppershrike and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper were all found within minutes, before a Lesser Anteater came across the grasslands straight towards us. Orange-winged Parrot, Roseate Spoonbill, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Vermilion Flycatcher, Black-collared Hawk and Glittering-throated Emerald were just a few of the birds we had seen before going more than five hundred metres. Other birds of note this morning included Barred Antshrike, Greyish Saltator, Grey-capped Thornbird, White-wedged Piculet, Great Antshrike, Moustached Wren, Matto Grosso Antbird, Helmeted Manakin, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Masked Gnatcatcher, Black-fronted Nunbird, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and Little Woodpecker. We returned to the hotel in late morning and had lunch followed by a couple of hours’ break, during which a family group of seven Giant River Otters was seen well. We left again in mid-afternoon, this time by boat. Black-capped Donacobious was our first new species, after which Chestnut-eared Aracaris, Sun Bitterns, Lesser Kiskadees, Green and Rufous Kingfisher, Pale-legged Hornero and Pygmy Kingfisher were just some of the species that we saw during the afternoon. We made a stop to watch the Giant River Otters being thrown fish by the boatmen and a short stop on the river bank gave us Red-billed Scythebill before we made the slow ride back towards the hotel as night fell. During the return we added Band-tailed Nighthawk, Pauraque, Boat-billed Heron, Great Potoo and a large cat in the shape of a Margay, somewhat ocelot-like, which was sitting in the fork of a large tree. A great day out and a large number of new species seen, as well as several mammals that were new for us.

July 13th: Pantanal - Porto Jofre

Weather: Sunny. 30 C.

We made a pre-dawn start this morning and left in boats to drift slowly down river as the dawn came up. Several Black Skimmers were hunting along the river as we boarded and it was not long before we started to find birds all around us. Some of the best birds of the trip included Boat-billed Heron, Capped Heron, Black-throated Piping Guan, Green and Rufous and American Pygmy Kingfisher, Pale Crested Woodpecker, Troupial and Band-tailed Antbird. Two Southern Screamers were waiting for us as we returned to the landing stage in time for breakfast. Before leaving for a trail walk, Buff-necked Ibis was seen and a Bay-winged Cowbird showed briefly. Other good birds this morning included Chotoy Spinetail, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Crested Oropendula, Rusty-backed Antwren, Rusty-collared Seedeater, Blue-tufted Starthroat, Long-tailed Ground Dove, Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant and Yellow--chinned Spinetail. After an early lunch we checked out of our hotel and headed deeper into the Pantanal. As we left and headed along the Trans Pantaneria, a Marsh Deer was seen. Within half an hour we came to a queue of traffic! A bridge was down but was being repaired as we arrived so we were on our way again within an hour, having added Scarlet-headed Blackbird to our lists whilst waiting. We made a short diversion en route and stopped near to a known breeding site for Hyacinth Macaw. Here we saw about forty-five of these magnificent birds as well as Yellow-chevroned Parakeet and Blue-black Grassquit. Before boarding our bus, four Golden-collared Macaws flew by and we also found Rufous Casiornis before rejoining the main track. We continued on our way, driving past huge flocks of birds that seemed at times to stretch almost to the horizon. Many Maguari Storks, Southern Screamers, Muscovy Ducks and Nacunda Nighthawks were seen. Several Chestnut-bellied Guans held our attention for a few moments and we made a rapid stop for a pair of Great Horned Owls on their nest. A final stop gave us Yellowish Pipit before the mosquitoes drove us back into our vehicle and we continued on to Porto Jofre, the end of the Pantaneria, where we were to spend the night.

July 14th: Pantanal

Weather: Sunny. 30 C

The hotel grounds this morning had Buff-necked Ibis, Large-billed Terns, Bare-faces Currasow and Bay-winged Cowbird. We spent the morning walking the Pantaneria from the hotel. Early on, Little Woodpecker and White-lored Spinetail were seen well and Thrush-like, Fawn-breasted and Moustached Wrens were all in the forest edge. Little Cuckoo was seen briefly but seen well later in the morning. Buff-throated Treecreeper showed and a Red-billed Scythebill was in perfect light for us all. A Cinnamon-throated Hermit and three Pale-crested Woodpeckers came next and an Undulated Tinamou crossed the trail behind us. White-eyed Atilla posed for us and Cinereous-breasted Spinetail was seen briefly, and was confirmed later in the morning, and a Hook-billed Kite flew nearby. White-bellied Seedeater and a Southern Yellowthroat were seen and, what was without doubt the most unusual species of the tour, three Rufous-rumped Seedeaters were seen well by all; the first sighting in the Pantanal since 1997. After lunch we checked out of our hotel and started the drive to our next hotel at the entrance to the Pantanal. En route we saw Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Sun Grebe, Golden-collared Macaw, Greater Rhea, Crane Hawk, Whistling Heron and we heard Least Bittern. A group of three Crab Eating Foxes was seen, as well as a Red Mazama, before we arrived at our destination. Another very good day in this wonderful place.

July 15th: Pantanal - Chapada.

Weather: Sunny. 30 C.

White Woodpecker and Crab Eating Foxes opened the day for us today as we left to take a forest walk nearby. We spent the first part of the morning here, seeing Buff-bellied Hermit and hearing a Laughing Falcon. An excellent bird this morning was Black-bellied Antshrike: we managed super views of a pair of this species, only recently discovered in Brazil. A Pair of Black and Gold Howler Monkeys were also seen before we returned to the hotel for a short break and then headed back into the Pantanal for one last visit. We stopped opposite a marsh that was literally teeming with birds and although we added no new species, the spectacle alone kept us all enthralled. To top all this, four Giant River Otters were very close by hunting and generally playing at the reed edges for the whole time that we watched. We returned to the hotel for lunch and then checked out and started our journey to Chapada dos Guimaraes where we would stay for two nights. At a short stop just outside Poconé we had wonderful views of a pair of Streamer-tailed Tyrants before continuing on our way. We made our last stop at some gorges just before reaching our hotel. Here, the magnificent scenery apart, we added some super birds to our trip lists: White-eyed Parakeets, Swallow Flycatcher, Black Crested Tyrant, Scaled Pigeon and Red-shouldered and Blue-winged Macaws all came quickly. Palm, Guira, Swallow, Lowland Hepatic and Burnished-buff Tanagers were also all seen and a brief view was had of a flock of Biscutate Swifts going to roost, before we continued on to our hotel.

July 16th: Chapada.

Weather: Sunny. 32 C.

We left the hotel just as the first light was coming into the sky and stopped to walk in an area of cerrado. Here birds came thick and fast, with fifteen new species within the first hour. Best birds here included White-eared Puffbird, Curl-crested Jay, Black-throated Saltator, Red-and-Green Macaw, White-banded and Black-faced Tanagers, Rufous-sided Pygmy Tyrant, Coal-crested Finch, Chequered Woodpecker and Chapada Flycatcher. We continued on in the bus, stopping for Grey Monjita and Red-pileated Finch, before returning to the hotel for a break and then lunch. While we rested up during the heat of the day, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker and Black-tailed Tityra were seen. We left again in mid-afternoon and headed to a nearby forest trail where we walked. New species during the afternoon included White-bellied Warbler, Chivi Vireo, Yellow-ridged Toucan, Blue-crowned Motmot and Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaner. In the last part of the walk we added Buff-throated Saltator and White-lined Tanager before returning to the vehicle and heading back to the hotel for drinks and dinner.

July 17th: Chapada - Cuiaba.

Weather: Sunny 25 C.

We all had good views of Green Barred Woodpecker this morning before getting on the bus and going to a forest area near the hotel, where we walked for about four hours. We spent quite some time in an area of cerrado, before entering the forest, in a search that was eventually successful: Collared Crescent Chest showed well for everyone. The forest itself gave us many new species starting with Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Black-masked Tityra, Planalto Tyrannulet, Streaked Xenops and Hooded Tanager. Further into the forest we found a pair of White-backed Fire-eyes and heard a Tataupa Tinamou, which unfortunately did not show itself. A Saffron-billed Sparrow was heard, and seen a little later by some, and Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Guilded Sapphire, Dot-eared Coquette and Black Throated Mango were all in the area. One of the best finds of the morning was a pair of Fiery-capped Manakins that we watched for some time. On returning to the hotel in late morning two Blue-winged Macaws were seen briefly. We went into town for lunch and then returned to pack and head back to Cuiaba where we were to spend a very short night. We stopped near Cuiaba and took another trail into a cerrado area. Here, we saw White-tailed Goldenthroat, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Lesser Elaenia and Double-collared Seedeater. Further on, Strip-tailed Yellow Finch was seen well and a final stop near a small lake gave us good views of seven Least Nightjars. From here we headed straight into Cuiaba and our hotel. We ate in a local grill-room and were early to bed as tomorrow would be a very early alarm call.

July 18th: Cuiaba - Itatiaia.

Weather: Cloudy. 18 C.

A very rude awakening this morning as our alarm calls came at two-thirty. Our flight left at four a.m. from the nearby airport and we headed to Sao Paolo. Edson, our guide, met us on arrival and we left immediately to head up to the Atlantic Forest area and Itatiaia. A stop near to Itatiaia, opposite some rank vegetation, gave us many new species, among which were Chestnut-headed Blackbird, Band-tailed Hornero, Common Waxbill (introduced some hundred years ago) Tawny-headed Swallow and Cinnamon Tanager. A little further on we saw Velvety Black Tyrant before arriving at the hotel in time for lunch. In mid-afternoon we walked the grounds of the hotel and added Golden-chevroned and Green-headed Tanagers, Brazilian Ruby, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Black Jacobin, Plain Antvireo and Yellow-lored Tody-tyrant. Among other birds seen this afternoon were Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Scale-throated Hermit, Green-winged Saltator and Pallid Spinetail. A small garden with several feeders produced a great show for over forty-five minutes. Many species of hummingbird, plus chlorophonias and tanagers, were present. Lesser Woodcreeper and White-barred Piculet were also there and Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaner made a quick appearance. A little further on we tried for Star-throated Antwren without much success but did get further good views of a male Blue Manakin. As the cloud ceiling was now only about five feet above our heads and the light was fading fast we returned to the hotel to shower and go for a beer, tired but very satisfied with another good day.

July 19th: Itatiaia.

Weather: Cloudy with rain and fog. 10 C.

The weather this morning was pretty awful. The clouds were swirling through the treetops and the rain and mist reduced visibility somewhat. We decided that nothing was going to change so we walked the Maromba trail near to the hotel. In spite of appalling weather we added a large number of new species and some sought-after birds. These included twelve species of Tanager, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Green-winged Saltator, Tropical Pewee, White-bearded Antshrike, a star bird, Greenish Shiffornis, White-throated and Large-headed Spadebills, Bertoni's and Ferruginous Antbirds, Ochre-rumped Antbird, Rufous-capped Spinetail, Black-throated Trogon, Star-throated Antwren, White-bibbed Antbird and Planalto Woodcreeper. After a long lunch, still hoping the weather might change, we decided that we would walk the roads and small trails near to the hotel. The weather did not change unfortunately but neither did our luck. Through the afternoon we added Burnished-buff, Magpie, Gilt-edged, Brassy-breasted and Brown Tanagers, Saffron Toucanet and Yellow-olive flycatcher before returning to the hotel in ever-fading light. A very good day in spite of the odds.

July 20th: Itatiaia - Aghulas Negras.

Weather: Cloudy with rain. 8 C.

This morning we were definitely in cloud forest! Rain and mist everywhere and colder. We took our bus and descended to lower levels to a marsh below the mountains. Here, among other species, we managed good views of two Rufous-sided Crakes before deciding that the weather was so bad that our only choice was to try and climb above it. We headed off towards the Serra do Mar mountain range and started climbing. Two Whistling Herons were seen as we passed a small marsh. En route we stopped near some farms and had good views of two female Brazilian Tanagers as well as Tawny-headed Swallows and a perched Sapphire-spangled Emerald. We continued on up and made another stop at fifteen hundred metres. Here we added Diademed Tanager, White-rimmed Warbler, Bay-chested and Red-rumped Warbling Finches, Rufous-winged Antbird, Highland Elaenia, Thick-billed Saltator and, albeit briefly, Black and Gold Cotinga. Mouse-coloured Tapaculo came next, then Rufous-tailed Antbird and Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper. Sharp-billed Treehunter was seen by some and another stop higher up the mountain gave us Black-capped Manakin and Yellow-browed and White-spotted Woodpeckers. Hooded Siskins were seen well and Rufous-crowned Greenlet and Serra do Mar Tyrannulet showed well. We made another stop for Araucaria Tit-spinetail before our final stop at two thousand five hundred metres. Here the weather was much better and we even saw some sun and blue sky. In the area we found Itatiaia Thistletail and Great Pampa Finch and, a great bonus, two Long-tailed Reed Finches. We started our downward journey in late afternoon, stopping for Slaty-breasted Rail, and rejoined the main road as dusk fell. In the end the weather had not caused us too many problems and we had in fact seen many very sought-after species

July 21st: Itatiaia.

Weather: Cloudy. 12 C.

This morning the weather was at last a little kinder to us. The rain had stopped and the cloud lifted a little although we were still birding in cloud forest. We took the Tres Picos trail this morning and soon had started adding to our lists. White-bibbed Antbird was heard several times but we still waited to see the bird. On the other hand Such's Antthrush, a rare bird, was seen well by everyone. Black-throated Grosbeak and Blackish-blue Seedeater both displayed perfectly for us all. Drab-breasted Bamboo Tyrant, Pin-tailed Manakin, Ochre-rumped Antbird and Grey Hooded Flycatcher were followed by a Masked Tit Monkey and on the final part of the walk we all had excellent views of Planalto, White-throated and Thrush-like Woodcreepers. We headed in for lunch and left on another trail in the early afternoon. Several new species came our way including Fulvous-headed Tanager, Grey-rumped Swift, Sharp-billed Treehunter and White-collared Foliage Gleaner. At last we had excellent views of White-collared Foliage Gleaner and White-bibbed Antbird. Fork-tailed Tody Tyrant and Grey-capped Tyrannulet came at the end of the walk and we then headed to the feeders in the nearby gardens. Birds were much the same as the previous visit but with the addition of male Black-eared Fairy, a lovely bird to end the day on.

July 22nd: Itatiaia.

Weather: Sunny. 18 C.

Breakfast at half-past three this morning and then we left to go to Agulhas Negras. We reached the area about an hour before dawn and, after a little searching, found our target: Rusty-barred Owl. Seen perfectly and well worth the early start. We waited until dawn came up and then started walking the road back down the mountain. The great bonus this morning was a clear sky and sunshine, very welcome indeed. We added Barred Forest Falcon early on and then Fawn-breasted Tanager and Blue-billed Black Tyrant before finding our second target: Black-and-gold Cotinga, obligingly perched in a nearby tree. Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet was also added and Brown-breasted Bamboo-tyrant was seen well by some before we returned to the hotel for lunch. En route we managed to find Sooty Tyrannulet, Short-tailed Hawk and a two Blue-winged Parrotlets. An excellent morning. After lunch a Black Hawk Eagle showed well over the hotel before we left on another walk in the forest. The walk was fairly short by recent standards, as we were all rather weary by now. We added Grey Hooded Atilla and had good views of White-collared Woodcreeper early on and then some had good views of Spot-billed Toucanet. A Black-billed Scythebill performed very well for us and a group of Swallow Tanagers was seen by all. The afternoon ended at the feeders where, for everyone’s great pleasure, a male Frilled Coquette fed for about thirty minutes. We returned to the hotel grounds and spent some time trying to see Tawny-browed Owl but, as on the previous evening, although it was very close to us and calling loudly, the bird did not want to be seen. We returned to the hotel to change for dinner having had yet another excellent day.

July 23rd: Itatiaia - Sao Paulo - UK.

Weather: Sunny. 20 C.

Our last morning today and we went on another local forest walk near the hotel. We confirmed several species that had only been seen briefly up until now and also added White-collared Swift, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Yellow-legged Thrush and Grey Elaenia before returning to the hotel. We packed our cases and checked out a little before eleven and left to go back to Sao Paolo. A short stop soon after leaving gave us all good views of Long-billed Wren but no other new birds were added before we arrived at the airport. We said our goodbyes to Edson and returned to the UK, arriving the following afternoon.

For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.

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